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Garden Tips

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Pansies are the colorful flowers with “faces.” A cool-weather favorite, pansies are great for both spring and fall gardens! Here’s how to plant pansies as well as keep them growing and blooming.

About Pansies

Pansies have heart-shaped, overlapping petals and one of the widest ranges of bright, pretty colors and patterns.

Good for containers, borders, and as ground cover, they are a go-to flower for reliable color almost year-round in some places. Pansies look pretty on their own in a monochrome scheme or in mixed colors; they also look pretty when planted with other cool-season flowers such as violas, primroses, trailing lobelia, and sweet alyssum.

Are Pansies Annual or Perennial Flowers? 

The pansy may be treated as either an annual or a perennial, depending on your climate. However, most gardeners treat this plant as an annual because it prefers cool weather and gets too leggy in the heat of summer. There hasn’t been much success in producing heat-tolerant pansies that can adequately survive hot weather.

Pansies are surprisingly hearty in cold weather, though. They’ll survive a frost, bouncing back from even single digit temperatures. If the blooms wither in the cold, the plants will often stay alive to bloom again, which makes them a great flowering plant for fall and early winter color.

When to Plant Pansies

  • Pansies can be planted in the early spring or in the fall. 
  • Pansies can be finicky to start from seed; it’s a lot easier to buy established plants from a local nursery. Plus, you’ll get blooms a lot sooner.
  • But if you want to start from seed, start pansy seeds indoors in late winter 8 to 10 weeks before the last spring frost for early spring and summer flowering. Or, start seeds in late summer for fall and winter flowering. Pansy seeds may be slow to germinate (typically emerging in anywhere from 1 to 3 weeks, depending on soil temperature).
  • Set pansy plants in the ground when it becomes workable in the spring. They grow best when soil temperatures are between 45°F and 65°F (7°C and 18°C).
  • Pansies can tolerate a light frost just after planting, but try to hold off on putting them in the ground if temperatures are still regularly reaching well below freezing.

Where to Plant Pansies

  • Plant in moist, humus-rich, well-drained soil. See our articles on soil amendments and preparing soil for planting for more information. 
  • Pansies like full or partial sun, but need cooler temperatures to thrive. The ideal planting site will get morning sun but avoid the heat of the late afternoon.
  • Space the plants about 7 to 12 inches apart. They will spread about 9 to 12 inches and grow to be about 6 to 9 inches tall.

Pansies in Pots

  • Pansies are great for containers. Just use standard potting soil designed for containers.
  • Plant in portable containers (12 inches or less in diameter) so the plants can be moved to a cooler area when the sun starts to get stronger. Early in the spring season or in the fall, a south-facing patio might be the perfect spot. During the summer, move pansies to the east side of your home for morning sun and afternoon shade.

How to Care for Pansies

  • Remember to water pansies regularly. One of the most common reasons pansies fail is because they are not watered enough, so if your pansies are not doing well, try watering them more.
  • You can use a general, all-purpose fertilizer around your pansies to help them grow. Be wary of using a nitrogen-heavy fertilizer, though, as this can result in more foliage instead of flowers.
  • Remove faded/dead flowers to encourage the plants to produce more blooms and to prolong the blooming season.

Article courtesy of Farmer’s Almanac

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Some flower bulbs are meant to be planted once the soil is warmer. Here’s a fantastic chart with those spring-planted bulbs that flower all summer long and often into the fall for amazing color! Think dahlias, lilies, gladiolus, iris, begonia, and more! We list the name, hardiness zone, sun/shade, blooming season, and more!

Common Name Hardiness Zone Soil Sun/Shade Spacing (in) Depth (in) Blooming Season Height (in)
Allium 3–10 Well–drained/
moist		 Full sun 12 3–4 Spring to summer  6–60
Begonia, tuberous 10–11 Well–drained/
moist		 Partial shade/Full shade 12–15 1–2 Summer to fall 8–18
Blazing star/gayfeather 7–10 Well–drained Full sun 6 4 Summer to fall 8–20
Caladium 10–11 Well–drained/
moist		 Partial shade/full shade 8–12 2 Summer 8–24
Calla lily 8–10 Well–drained/
moist		 Full sun/partial shade 8–24 1–4 Summer 24–36
Canna 8–11 Well–drained/
moist		 Full sun 12–24 Level Summer 18–60
Cyclamen 7–9 Well–drained/
moist		 Partial shade 4 1–2 Spring to fall 3–12
Dahlia 9–11 Well–drained/
fertile		 Full sun 12–36 4–6 Late summer 12–60
Daylily 3–10 Adaptable to most soils Full sun/
partial shade		 12–24 2 Summer 12–36
Freesia 9–11 Well–drained/
moist/sandy		 Full sun/
partial shade		 2–4 2 Summer 12–24
Garden gloxinia 4–8 Well–drained/
moist		 Full sun 12 3–4 Summer 6–20
Gladiolus 4–11 Well–drained/
fertile		 Full sun/
partial shade		 4–9 3–6 Early summer to
early fall		 12–80
Iris 3–10 Well–drained/
sandy		 Full sun 3–6 4 Spring to late summer 3–72
Lily, Asiatic/
Oriental		 3–8 Well–drained Full sun/partial shade 8–12 4–6 Early summer 36
Peacock flower 8–10 Well–drained Full sun 5–6 4 Summer 18–24
Shamrock/sorrel 5–9 Well–drained Full sun/
partial shade		 4–6 2 Summer 2–12
Windflower 3–9 Well–drained/
moist		 Full sun/
partial shade		 3–6 2 Early summer 3–18

5 Tips for Planting Summer Bulbs

Just remember: Plant AFTER any chance of frosts in your area; these bulbs are not frost-tolerant. See the Almanac Frost Calculator for your zip code.
When buying bulbs, look for tubers with three to five eyes and initial root formation. In general, look for firm and healthy bulbs. Bulbs that are mushy usually have not been kept in a cool, dry place and will rot and therefore not flower.

Summer-flowering bulbs and tubers can be planted in the spring when you are certain that the ground will no longer freeze in your area. This may be up until the end of May, depending on your area. The bulbs need sufficient water and humid conditions.

The rule of thumb is to plant the bulb or tuber about 5 inches deep—except for dahlias and begonias, which should be planted just beneath the surface.
Once your summer bulbs have finished blooming, they can often be used again the following year. With the exception of lilies, the bulbs have to be taken out of the ground if it freezes in your area during the winter. If it does freeze in your area, let the leaves die down naturally, and then dig up the bulbs and store in a cool dry place to replant the following spring.

Popular Summer and Tropical Bulbs

Below we’ve highlighted some popular, colorful summer bulbs for the garden to keep the blooms going all season long!

Gladiolus
Gladiolus corms can be planted as early as soon as danger of frost has passed. Plant the corms 4 inches deep and 6 inches apart and stagger planting dates to have flowers all summer long. See our complete Guide to Growing Gladiolus.

Dahlias
Gorgeous tall dahias do not tolerate frost, so plant the tuberous roots after all frost possibilities have passed. Dahlias usually require support; drive a stake into the ground 12 inches deep and 6 inches behind the root at the time of planting. See our complete Guide to Growing Dahlias.

Cannas
Cannas can be planted directly in the garden in mid-May. Plant canna rhizomes 6 inches deep and 18 inches apart in late spring and after the danger of frost has passed. 

Tuberous Begonias
Tuberous begonias can’t be planted in the garden until mid-May. Plant the tuberous begonia roots (which may be up to 1 ½ inches in diameter) 4 inches deep in a partially-shaded area.

Winter Storage

Note that most of these summer-flowering bulbs are “tender” and can not bear frost come fall. So, if you live in colder climates, they need to be dug up and stored until spring. If this is too much trouble, treat them as annuals and do not expect them to come back (if they do, bonus!).

How to store? Once the frost has killed the foliage (but before the ground is frozen), just remove the foliage and dig them up. Shake off excess soil and let dry for a couple days. Then store in sawdust or dry peat moss in boxes, not plastic bags. Place in a storage area that is dry and about 45 degrees F. Do not allow to freeze. If plants are in pots, merely cut the frosted foliage off and place pots in a non-freezing but cool location. You shouldn’t need to water until next spring.

Article courtesy of the Farmer’s Almanac

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Five Reasons to be Thankful for Houseplants

While you’re counting your blessings and listing those things you’re grateful for this New Year, don’t forget to include houseplants. Indoor plants provide a pop of color and interesting texture to any space.

Houseplants are more than just a pretty face, though. They impact our everyday lives by cleaning the air and reducing stress. Give houseplants everything they need to grow and they’ll pay you back.

Here are the Top Five Reasons to Be Thankful for Houseplants

  1. Indoor Plants Purify the Air

Studies from the US Environmental Protection Agency have found that levels of indoor air pollution can be two to five times higher — and in some cases 10 times more polluted — than outdoor air. Houseplants such as bromeliads, spider plants and dracaena, remove the harmful compounds frequently found in homes and offices, produced by cleaning supplies, paint, furniture glue and nail polish remover.

  1. Houseplants help us relax

Researchers have found that being around plants—especially indoors, can reduce stress and help us feel happier and more relaxed. You can never have too many houseplants so choose one, or 10 that work for you.

  1. Plants Make Us Smarter

Having a plant around can enhance learning abilities by improving our concentration, focus and problem-solving skills. Make sure to place houseplant in home offices, studying spaces and at work.

  1. They Improve Our Physical Health

Plants offer physical benefits, too. One study found that adding plants to office spaces reduces headaches, coughs and sore throats. And employees typically use fewer sick days.

Know someone in the hospital? Bring them a plant. A Kansas State University studied found that patients in rooms with plants request less pain medication, have lower heart rates and blood pressure, experience less fatigue and anxiety and are discharged sooner.

  1. They’re easy to care for

Seniors feel better and more fulfilled when they take care of houseplants (or pets). Keeping plants healthy, helps make us more socially connected and happy. There’s a perfect plant out there for anyone, and certain plants, such as sansevieria and zz plant, are surprisingly low maintenance .

Show gratitude for your favorite plants by giving them proper care. Learn how here.

Courtesy of Epsoma.com 

 

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Holiday Poinsettia Plant Care

Poinsettia care begins with proper light, water, and temperature conditions. During the holidays, while in full bloom, they typically enjoy semi-cool, humid locations in bright, indirect light with plenty of moisture. Poinsettia plants should be watered thoroughly, taking care not to drown them by ensuring adequate drainage is available. Likewise, avoid letting them sit in water-filled saucers, which can lead to root rot. Adding plants nearby can help increase humidity levels in dry rooms, as will humidifiers. Once flower bracts have fallen, you have the option of discarding the plant or keeping it an additional year. For those choosing to continue with poinsettia care, decrease regular watering to allow the plant to dry out some. However, don’t let it dry out completely. Also, relocate the poinsettia plant to a cool, dark area until spring or around April.

Fertilizing Poinsettia Plants

Fertilizing poinsettia plants is never recommended while they’re still in bloom. Fertilize poinsettias only if keeping them after the holiday season. Apply fertilizer every two weeks or once monthly using a complete houseplant fertilizer. Provided the poinsettia plant is given the proper environmental conditions, it should begin to regrow within weeks.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Poinsettia Care – How Do You Take Care Of Poinsettias https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/flowers/poinsettia/poinsettia-care-how-do-you-take-care-of-poinsettias.htm

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Fa la la la! It’s the most wonderful time of the year–and our favorite part of the season! It’s time to head out with your family and wander amongst all the beautiful types of trees, looking for just the right one. As you’re searching, do the fresh test! Run your fingers along the needles, grab the branches and bounce the tree a little. If many needles fall off, the tree was cut long ago and has not gotten enough water, so find another! Also, the hunt for the perfect tree will go much smoother if you already know the type of tree you want.

Picking out a perfect tree isn’t all about looks—the tree’s scent, strength of branches, and needle retention all matter, too. So before you head to the tree farm or lot to select yours, lets compare the two most popular Christmas trees.

Balsam Fir –  3/4″ to 1 and 1/2″ short, flat, long lasting needles that are rounded at the tip; nice, dark green color with silvery cast and fragrant. These needles are 3/4 – 1 and 1/2 in. in length and last a very long time. This is the traditional Christmas tree that most Americans grew up with. This tree has a dark-green appearance and retains its pleasing fragrance throughout the Christmas season. 

Fraser Fir – The Fraser fir may be the perfect holiday tree. Its attractive 1-inch needles are silvery-green and soft to the touch. Because there is space between the branches, the Fraser is easier to decorate than some trees. The firm branches hold heavier ornaments. The trees grow to almost perfect shapes, and as long as the cut tree is kept properly watered, the Frasier fir has excellent needle retention.

Everyone has their favorite. We hope you have fun selecting this year’s perfect tree!

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Pennisetum setaceum is a tender perennial fountain grass that is native to Africa, southeast Asia and the Middle East. It is a rapid-growing, clump-forming grass that produces arching, linear, narrow green leaves to 3’ tall and late summer flower spikes that rise above the foliage to 4’ tall. In warm areas where in may be grown as a perennial, it readily self seeds. In colder areas it dies in winter. Location means everything. Overall clump appearance is reminiscent of water spraying from a fountain, hence the common name.

Genus name comes from the Latin penna meaning “feather” and seta meaning “bristle” in reference to the flowers having long, feathery bristles.

‘Rubrum’, sometimes commonly called purple or red fountain grass, is a burgundy-red leaved cultivar that is not invasive under any circumstances because, unlike the species, it rarely sets seed. Showy, fluffy, burgundy-purple flowers in bottlebrush-like spikes (to 12” long) top flower stalks that arch upward and outward above the burgundy-red foliage clump in summer.

Uses

Specimen, group or mass. Attractive foliage and flower spikes of this ornamental grass provide excellent texture, color and contrast to borders, foundations and open areas.

Culture

Winter hardy to USDA Zones 9-10 where it is easily grown as a perennial in average, medium moisture, well-drained soils in full sun to part shade. Best performance is in full sun. In St. Louis, it will not survive winter and is typically grown as if it were an annual. Although species plants can be grown from seed each year new plants are typically purchased from nurseries each spring for planting in the garden after last spring frost date. Technically plants can be dug in fall, trimmed and overwintered in greenhouses or indoors in sunny cool areas, but many gardeners simply prefer to purchase new plants each spring. Plants may need some staking or other support and should be sited in areas protected from strong winds. Provide consistent water throughout the growing season.